The process by which a climber can descend a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.
Adze
A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds.
Alpine start
To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise.
An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or top rope.
Approach
The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it is occasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.
Arête
1. A small ridge-like feature on a steep rock face
2. Arête, a narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion
3. A method of indoor climbing, in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also dihedral.
A piece of training equipment used to improve campusing and core strength.
Back-clipping
A hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing. The belay rope is clipped into a quickdraw in the wrong direction causing an increase in friction on the rope and an increase in the likelihood of the rope becoming unclipped during a fall.
Bail
To retreat from a climb.
Barn-dooring
Swinging out from the wall like a door on a hinge.
A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay device exist, including ATC, grigri, Reverso, Sticht plate, eight and tuber. Some belay devices may also be used as descenders. A Munter hitch can sometimes be used instead of a belay device.
Belay slave
Someone that volunteers for, or is tricked into, repeated belaying duties without partaking in any of the actual climbing.
A camp, or the act of camping, from "bivouac." On a big wall, camp can be made on a natural ledge or an artificial one, generally a cotlike device called a portaledge that hangs from anchors on the wall.
Bivy-bag
A lightweight garment or sack offering full-body protection from wind and rain.
Bollard
A large knob of rock or ice used as a belay anchor.
The practice of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.
A compound used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It is actually gymnastics chalk, usually magnesium carbonate. Its use is controversial in some areas.
Chalk bag
A hand-sized holder for a climber's chalk that is usually carried on a chalkbelt for easy access during a climb.
A rock cleft with vertical sides mostly parallel, large enough to fit the climber's body into. To climb such a structure, the climber often uses his head, back and feet to apply opposite pressure on the vertical walls.
The process of using such a technique.
Chipping
Improving a hold by permanently altering the rock. Widely used in the 80's and early 90's, but now considered unethical and unacceptable.
Chock
A mechanical device, or a wedge, used as anchors in cracks.
A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.
To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see redpoint.
In aid climbing, abbreviated "C", a route that does not require the use of a hammer or any invasive addition of protection (such as pitons or copperheads) into the rock (see protection).
Cleaning tool
A device for removing jammed equipment, especially nuts, from a route. Also known as a nut key.
A small pass or "saddle" between two peaks. Excellent for navigation as when standing on one it's always down in two, opposite, directions and up in the two directions in between those.
Cordelette
A long loop of accessory cord used to tie into multiple anchor points.
Corner
An inside corner of rock, the opposite to an arête (UK). See Dihedral.
A special purpose type of sling with multiple sewn, or tied, loops. It is significantly weaker than a normal sling.
Dead hang
To hang limp, such that weight is held by ligament tension rather than muscles.
Deadman anchor
An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke.
Deadpoint
A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.
A method of rappelling, without mechanical tools, where the uphill rope is straddled by the climber then looped around a hip, across the chest, over the opposite (weak) shoulder, and held with the downhill (strong) hand to adjust the shoulder friction and thus the descending speed.
Dynamic belay
Technique of stopping a long fall using smooth braking to reduce stress on the protection points and avoid unnecessary trauma from an abrupt stop.
Dynamic rope
A slightly elastic rope that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged less severely by heavy loads. Compare with static rope.
Dynamic motion
Any move in which body momentum is used to progress. As opposed to static technique where three-point suspension and slow, controlled movement is the rule.
Dyno
A dynamic move to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach. Generally both feet will leave the rock face and return again once the target hold is caught. Non-climbers would call it a jump or a leap.
A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 metres above sea level. There are fourteen such mountains on earth.
Eliminate
A term from bouldering describing a move or series of moves in which either certain holds are placed 'off bounds' or other artificial restrictions are imposed.
Epic
An ordinary climb rendered difficult by a dangerous combination of weather, injuries, darkness, or other adverse factors.
Exposure
Empty space below a climber, usually referring to a great distance above the deck through which the climber could fall.
F
Face climbing
To ascend a vertical rock face using finger holds, edges and smears, i.e. not crack climbing.
Fall
Undesirable downward motion. Hopefully stopped by a rope, otherwise see mountain rescue.
A "free-solobelay," the quickest way to reach the ground.
Figure Four
Advanced climbing technique where the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm, and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach. Requires strength and a solid handhold.
A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing.
Flagging
Climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight. Often useful to prevent barn-dooring.
Flake
A thin slab of rock detached from the main face.
Flapper
An injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. A climber will usually just repair these with sticky tape or super glue.
Flash
To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt after receiving beta either by discussing the route or by watching another climber.
Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.
Free Solo
Climbing without aid or protection. This typically means climbing without a rope.
Friction
Climbing technique relying on the friction between the sloped rock and the sole of the shoe to support the climber's weight, as opposed using holds or edges, cracks, etc.
Friend
A name brand of a type of spring loaded camming device (SLCD), sometimes used to refer to any type of spring loaded camming device.
Flute
A usually insecure fin or flake of rock or ice.
G
Gaston
A type of climbing grip. Best described as a handhold that is only good from the side, but you must hold it with your elbows pointing out.
Gendarme
A pinnacle or isolated rock tower frequently encountered along a ridge.
Geneva rappel
A modified dulfersitz rappel using the hip and downhill arm for friction, rather than the chest and shoulder, offering less complexity, but less friction and less control.
A belay device designed to be easy to use and safer for beginners because it is self-locking under load. Invented and manufactured by Petzl. Many experienced climbers advocate the use of an atc type device for beginners
Gripped
Scared. Also over gripping the rock.
Grovel
To climb with obviously poor style or technique.
A climbing route judged to be without redeeming virtue.
Gumby
An inexperienced (or unsafe) climber.
Gym climbing
Climbing indoors, on artificial climbing walls. This is typically for training but many people consider this a worthwhile activity in its own right.
See climbing harness. A sewn nylon webbing device worn around the waist and thighs that is designed to allow a person to safely hang suspended in the air.
Haul bag
A large and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown.
Also known as a brain bucket or skid lid. It can save your life, but only while worn.
Hexcentric
A protective device. It is an eccentric hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just termed Hex.
Hold
A place to temporarily cling, grip, jam, press, or stand in the process of climbing.
Honed
To be in peak mental and physical fitness for climbing.
A screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system. The strongest and most reliable is the modern tubular ice screw which ranges in length from 18 to 23 cm.
Ice piton
Long, wide, serrated piton once used for weak protection on ice.
A form of climbing in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb (traditional) or clips the belay rope into preplaced equipment attached to bolts (sport).
Leader Fall
A fall while Lead climbing. A fall from above the climbers last piece of protection. The falling leader will fall at least twice the distance back to her last piece, plus slack and rope stretch.
Lieback
Or layback. A climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on the feet.
Locking carabiner
A carabiner with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.
Low-Angle
A face climb that is less than vertical; the opposite of an overhang or roof.
M
Mantle
A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock in the absence of any useful holds directly above. It involves pushing down on a ledge or feature instead of pulling down. In ice climbing, a mantle is done by moving the hands from the shaft to the top of the ice tool and pushing down on the head of the tool.
The external covering of a climbing rope. Climbing ropes use kernmantle construction consisting of a kern (or core) for strength and an external sheath called the mantle.
Match
To use one hold for two limbs, or to swap limbs on a particular hold.
Moat
A crevasse that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation.
A friendly team of people that may come and rescue you after an injury or accident. May also search for overdue climbers, at no small peril and expense. Also seecoroner and rescue doctrine of negligence law.
Method of climbing – used on easy Alpine ground – in which two or more climbers climb at the same time with running belays between them and fixed belays not being used.
Multi-pitch climbing
Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.
Danger in a climbing situation which comes from hazards inherent in the location of the climb, not depending on the climber's skill level. Most often these involve falling rock or ice, or avalanches.
Off-width
A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams, but is not as large as a chimney.
In the strictest climbing definition, a pitch is considered one rope length (50-60 meters). However, in guide books and route descriptions, a pitch is the portion of a climb between two belay points.
A flat or angled metal blade of steel which incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body. A piton is typically used in "aid-climbing" and an appropriate size and shape is hammered into a thin crack in the rock and preferably removed by the last team member.
Piton catcher
clip-on string fastened to piton when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.
Plunge step
An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep angle snow.
Pof
An alternative to chalk made from pine resin. Popular in Fontainebleau but discouraged (or actively forbidden) everywhere else since it deposits a thick, shiny resin layer on the rock and friction can only be achieved by using more pof.
Positive
Of a hold or part of a hold, having a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use.
Pressure Breathing
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude. Also called the "Whittaker wheeze".
Problem
Used in bouldering, the path that a climber takes in order to complete the climb. Same as route in roped climbing.
A knot used for ascending a rope. It is named after Dr Karl Prusik, the Austrian mountaineer who developed this knot in 1931.
To use a Prusik knot for ascending a rope.
Pseudo Leading
To climb a wall Toprope with having another rope connected to the climber, for practice of Lead climbingclipping. The other rope is normally not connected to any belayer below and is only there to practice the clipping. Usually practiced while learning how to Lead Climb.
Pumped
To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the flexor digitalis (forearm), that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible. Often easy activities such as holding a camera become difficult or impossible.
A climb which receives a much lower grade than deserved. A traditionally protected climb can, if undergraded, be very dangerous, and the term sandbag is often said with a note of respectful dread.
A nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn up in multiple places to make a shorter length. In the event of a fall the sewn sections part, absorbing some of the fall energy and decelerating the climber.
A small climbing hold, screwed onto the wall in climbing gyms. Can be used for feet in a route regardless of its colour.
Second
A climber who follows the lead, or first, climber.
Self-Arrest
The act of planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow to arrest a fall in the event of a slip. Also a method of stopping in a controlled glissade.
Send
Cleanly completing a route. ie on-sight, flash, redpoint. Sometimes even on tr.
The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as "Scissor leg", "Elvis Presley Syndrome", or "Disco knee".
Sharp end
The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber.
Short fixing
The lead climber switches over to self belaying and continues to climb after reaching a belay and fixing the rope. Meanwhile the second climber jugs the fixed rope and cleans the pitch. When he reaches the belay, he ties in and starts to belay the leader in the traditional way again. When the leader reaches the next belay the process is repeated.
Side grip
A (usually vertical) hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull. Often just simply called a "side pull."
Simulclimbing
A technique where both climbers move simultaneously upward with the leader placing protection which the second removes as they advance. A device known as a Tibloc which allows the rope to only move in a single direction is sometimes used to prevent the second climber from accidentally pulling the lead climber off should the second slip.
Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. This is common in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb. Noted as SDS in some topo guides.
Slab
A relatively low-angle (significantly less than vertical) section of rock, usually with few large features. Requires slab climbing techniques.
Slab climbing
A particular type of rock climbing, and its associated techniques, involved in climbing rock that is less than vertical. The emphasis is on balance, footwork, and making use of very small features or rough spots on the rock for friction.
Slack
Portion of rope that is not taut, preferably minimized during belay.
A style of climbing where form, technical (or gymnastic) ability and strength are more emphasized over exploration, self-reliance and the exhilaration of the inherent dangers involved in the sport. Sport climbing routes tend to be well protected with pre-placed bolt-anchors and lends itself well to competitive climbing.
Spotting
An alternative to belaying commonly used during bouldering. A friend of the climber stands beneath them and prevents awkward falls or falls onto hazards.
Sprag
A type of hand position where the fingers and thumb are opposed.
Static
Of a style of climbing or specific move, not dynamic.
The simultaneous use of two widely spaced footholds.
Climbing using two faces that are at an angle less than 180° to each other.
Sticht plate
A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots. Named after the inventor Franz Sticht.
Stick clip
A device used in sport climbing to clip the first bolt. This is especially useful if the first bolt is high up, and out of the comfort zone of the climber. A stick clip can be bought or easily made by attaching a quickdraw to a stick with a rubber band.
A kind of proto- climbing harness consisting of a long length of tubular webbing wrapped several times around the climbers body and secured with a water knot. Largely eschewed today in favor of commercial harnesses.
Swinging-lieback
A dynamic form of the lieback described above, rotating off one foot while maintaining a grip with that hand, then grabbing a high handhold at the deadpoint of the swing. This move is frequently reversible, unlike more aerial dynos.
T
Talus
Large rock fragments forming an often unstable slope below scree.
Teabagging
When, after a whipper, or long fall, a climber falls past their belayer, who is generally lifted up off the ground.
A style of climbing that emphasizes the adventure and exploratory nature of climbing. While sport climbers generally will use pre-placed protection, many traditional (or "trad") climbers will place their own protection as they climb, generally with a rack.
Tramming
A technique that is typically used while cleaning gear from a steep route. A quickdraw is clipped between the climber's harness and the rope that is threaded through the gear. As the climber is lowered by the belayer, they will descend along the line of the gear.
Traverse
To climb in a horizontal direction.
A feature of a route that allows relatively easy progress in a horizontal direction.
A Tyrolean traverse is crossing a chasm using a rope anchored at both ends.
A pendulum traverse involves swinging from a protection point.
A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes on rock. Hard to climb on as crampons have insufficient depth for reliable penetration.
W
Wand
A bamboo stick with a small flag on top used to mark paths over glaciers and snow fields.
Hollow and flat nylon strip, mainly used to make runners and slings.
Webelette
A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.
Weighting
As in, "weighting the rope." Any time the rope takes the weight of the climber. This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope (see also hangdogging.)
A lead fall from above and to the side of the last clip, whipping oneself downwards and in an arc. Has come to be the term for any fall beyond the last placed or clipped piece of protection.
Wired
To have the moves required for completing a climb memorized. See dialled.
A home made climbing wall. Often specifically a hybrid between a climbing wall and a fingerboard. Specifically called such because of the wooden panels (usually left unpainted) used to attach the climbing holds to.
A numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs in the United States. The rock climbing (5.x) portion of the scale is the most common climb grading system used in the US. The scale runs from 5.0 to 5.15b (as of 2008)
Yabo
Another name for a Sit start, a 'Yabo start' was named after John 'Yabo' Yablonski[1].
Z
Z-clipping
Clipping into an anchor with the segment of rope from beneath the previous anchor, resulting in an unsafe configuration of the belay rope.